The Cafes of Vienna, April-May 2023
What’s your favorite big city? Mine keeps evolving as I myself do, and these days I’ve come to love Vienna. To my view, this grand city does the best job with all those things you would hope cities would offer.
Vienna might not have the historical sites of Rome, the restaurants of New York, or the weather of San Diego, but taken as a whole it’s magnificent. The place is clean, civilized, feels safe and just looks beautiful in every direction. The museums are great, there is the music, the monuments, architecture, the parks and shopping. It’s small enough to walk around, and big enough to dilute the rising flow of tourists. But my favorite aspect of this city has to be the cafes. There is something about taking a table in a cafe that has been around for a hundred years and having a fine coffee and nice sinful pastry all the while surrounded by people who want to do the same thing you are. Just happy to be there, relaxed, and taking it all in.
I never covered Vienna in the blog, I guess it never came on as a new destination. Then the thought occurred that what I like best about the city might be the thing that needs some documentation.
So here we have it, my take on the best cafes in Vienna. Perhaps it will be useful to you if you find yourself there, and certainly if you have insights into locations I’ve missed or see things differently I hope you’ll comment. The cafes I chose for my review are all well established attractive institutions. The list is far from all inclusive, in particular options with modern decor or recently opened were right out.
All right then, here is the list: Cafe Central, Cafe Museum, Cafe Sacher, Kaffee Alt Wien, Cafe Landtmann, Cafe Sperl, Cafe Schwarzenberg, Cafe Hawelka, Cafe Eiles, and Cafe Frauenhuber. We’ll take them one by one and I’ll conclude by naming my favorites.
The Cafe Central. You’ll find this gem in the middle of town, true to it’s name. The interior is spacious with high vaulted ceilings. Now I should point out straight off that every one of the cafes on my list I found to have great coffee, so there is nothing here to draw a distinction with. Some had better menus but for me this contest was all about the setting and the overall experience I enjoyed. Cafe Central gets good marks for being a large beautiful space with a nice selection of pastries. The only down side is that due to it’s location and reputation it can fill up quickly and spawn a line out front.
The Cafe Museum. This is a bit smaller and notably busy due to it’s position. It is located off Friedrichstrasse a few blocks from the Opera House. The original cafe dates back to 1899 and although it’s all nice enough, a renovation in the last twenty years gives it a newer feel that I wasn’t too excited about. Nearly all these cafes have a history as a hang out for someone famous. This locale was reportedly a favorite of Gustav Klimt an artist I certainly admire.
The Cafe Sacher. There was a long line when I visited, it was a Sunday and although early in the travel season it still drew a crowd. I almost gave up on it, but I’m glad I didn’t. Once inside the cafe, there is nothing rushed or touristy about it. It was very elegant and relaxing, and the wait staff were very professional and let you take your time. The cafe is famous for the Sacher cake, a rich chocolate cake served by the slice. It’s great, but although it was invented here, many other spots around Vienna serve the same thing.
The Kaffee Alt Wien. This little cafe in the center of town is wallpapered with colorful posters and had a unique feel, sort of artsy and hip. It wasn’t packed and you had no trouble just walking in and sitting at a table. I think it’s a nice choice if you’re in the neighborhood, but I wouldn’t walk out of my way to visit.
The Cafe Landtmann. Located on the Universitatsring Avenue, a broad boulevard that cicles the historic area and sports a nice bike path, this large cafe is across from the Rathause and University of Vienna. It’s popular but has ample seating. Best of all is the outdoor area which looks out into the Rathausplatz and the busy avenue. A beautiful setting in the open air, and for people watching. Unfortunately this visit it was a rainy day and we sat inside, so the photos don’t really demonstrate how beautiful it can be.
The Cafe Sperl. This cafe is a bit off the beaten path, located in more of neighborhood setting southwest of the museums. Still an easy walk from the transit lines and the main tourist area. More of a locals spot, it has a vintage feel with high arched windows and a lofty ceiling. Oddly there are some pool tables on the one side that don’t get much use, but the cafe has been in place since the 1800’s and had it’s share of important regulars. One being the Archduke Ferdinand. It seems although renovated periodically they do well to maintain is original ambiance. There is a small seating area outside, but it’s charm is found to the left of the entry at a table by the window.
The Cafe Schwarzenberg. Located on the the Ringstrasse, is easy to reach from the tram and not far from the Opera house. Dating back to the 1860’s it’s seen a lot and although it took it’s share of abuse in WW2, it seems well maintained and retains much of it’s original grace. Being in a busy section of town it fills up but not to the point of generating a long line like Central or Sacher.
The Cafe Hawelka. A smaller cafe in the city center, it is neither one of the oldest or prettiest on the list. Claim to fame here is a long history of being a favorite of local artists. Frankly it just rounds out the top ten.
The Cafe Eiles. This is another neighborhood cafe. It was one of the first I sought out when I initially visited a few years back. Situated a few blocks outside the city’s tourist center you’ll find it behind the busy Renner-Ring, the Parlament and Rathaus buildings and situated on a corner. It’s not that busy so you shouldn’t find a line outside. I love that it has a local feel, like a place only frequented by those who live and work in the area. It’s very old but the management is newer and energetic. This cafe just seems comfortable, welcoming and has the same historic feel of the best cafes in the city. Get an upholstered seat by the window and blend in.
The Cafe Frauenhuber. This cafe may be the oldest in the city. It doesn’t excel in any one aspect, and may not be your first choice but it covers all the bases and is worth a visit. It has a pretty street view with a small outdoor seating area, there are the old vaulted ceilings and of course a rich heritage that spans hundreds of years.
So in summary what are my recommendations?
For an outdoor coffee on a nice day, it’s Cafe Landtmann hands down.
For a touch of elegance if you catch it in the off season, Cafe Sacher.
For it’s impressive space and furnishings, Cafe Central.
The best overall? I like a cafe that embraces the ambiance, history and neighborhood feel all at once, and my favorite is Cafe Eiles. It is as they say, easy to find and hard to beat. With a close second to Cafe Sperl as it shares the same qualities, it’s just a bit more of a walk.