The second world war is often described as the “world in flames”. There are various ways to theorize why it started. The weight and pain of Versailles, the Prussian military culture, the powerful evil genius of Hitler, the racial philosophies that spread from the late 19th century? Maybe all the above, I don’t know, but one thing seems certain to me, and that is where it started. The ignition source for the wildfire that consumed most the world and killed 50 million people; it was Munich.

Does this look familiar? Google Hitler’s water color artwork

Sticking with the wildfire analogy, at its origin it takes a combination of combustable materials, rich air, and a hot spark. Lost on me before was how that dangerous mix was piled high in the shear chaos of Germany after the First World War. In particular in Bavaria, an autonomous nation as late as 1871, it was in 1919 just 48 years after the German unification and struggling with its existence. Many wanted it to again become a separate German nation, as Austria was, many wanted an independent socialist state resembling the Soviet model, others wanted the monarchy restored. Everyone was willing to fight for what they wanted and nearly everyone opposed Berlin. People were poor, hungry, humiliated, and starving for a change. They lost thousands of sons in the fields to the West and felt betrayed by Berlin, who they largely felt had just quit the fight and left them to be raped by their conquerors.

View toward the Konigsplatz, once a major Nazi parade ground, now in happier times.

There were many political parties in Munich in 1919, like the hilarious “what have the Romans ever done for us” Monty Python scene in Life of Brian where the revolutionaries become confused about the party names. It probably wasn’t too hard to get one started. If you had some ideas, a mimeograph machine and a good speaking voice you were good to go. There was no money in it, you were likely to get your ass kicked, and almost as likely to get shot dead. But hey, at least you might feel better trying to make a change, and many were compelled to do just that.

Enter a young man from Austria trying to find himself, a friendless, lost and worthless soul. A failed artist, a street rat. He was however in possession of a lethal mix of courage, intelligence and speaking ability that might have served well if he’d just been born in a different time and place. Maybe starting a smart phone company or marketing an electric car. There was something else of course, his sense of destiny and almost religious faith in his own psychotic (no better word) ideas. His vision was worth any cost to himself and he was driven in a messianic frenzy to realize it.

Pinakothek art museum, notice the center section destroyed by bombing and rebuilt shortly after the war.

Back to the fire. I’ve been to Munich several times, and love the city. It is so civilized, clean, safe and welcoming. The architecture, the museums, the restaurants, and of course the best beer in the world at least to my taste. This visit I tried to get to the next layer and get to know more of the city from a historical perspective. I had read about the Beer Hall Putsch, and I wanted to know more about where this all started. As Mary Poppins said its best to begin at the beginning. So I re-read some books on my phone here and there, as we toured and walked more than few kilometers around town.

Just behind the Hilton where the Burgerbräukeller once stood, this plaque shows the site where Georg Elser’s bomb, placed next to pillar, came within 13 minutes of taking out Hitler during the 1939 putsch anniversary celebration.

The side wall of the porch at Feldherrnhalle where the putsch march failed in gunfire. A shot killed the man marching arm in arm with Hitler; so close.

Along the way we walked the path of the putsch’s march from the now Hilton hotel to its bloody conclusion at the Feldherrnhalle. Pausing on the way for a coffee before the Isar bridge I read about an old beer hall. This is the Hofbräukeller. Now this little restaurant and beer garden is not to be confused with the Hofbräuhaus. The latter being worth an obligatory visit the first time to Munich and not much else. Both are owned by the same company, they have the same beer, the same food (might be better at the keller) and a very different atmosphere.

The Hofbräukeller interior, everyone was eating outside as you’d expect

The Hofbräukeller is free of the tourist mass, you get served promptly, and you don’t need to have a reservation, or share a table if you prefer not too. I liked it. We went there because I stumbled on a little tidbit of historical fact that many probably know but was new to me. This was where on October 16, 1919, Adolph Hitler tested himself and made his first speech. There were 111 people there. Clearly, this is the spot where the arson investigator finds the fire source. It was here that Hitler realized by his own account, as I read later, that he could command an audience. In fact one co-leader of the tiny new party quit over him being chosen to make a presentation there, as he felt Hitler was incapable of making a good speech. The no good Austrian had in a few hours in front of a small group of Bavarians, galvanized his belief in himself. He knew at that moment he finally found himself a job, and there was unfortunately for the world no turning back. At this little quaint restaurant we find the blackened gas can and lighter. Just 26 years later the little orator left Munich in nearly complete destruction and much of the world beyond it. To get a good idea of what became of Munich after that October day, visit the Munich Documentation Center. Opened in 2001 on the scorched site of the Nazi party headquarters, this is one of the best historical museums I’ve ever visited. It takes you through the birth of the movement in Munich all the way to its end and the beginning of the city’s recovery after the American occupation. All in English, no guide or audio needed. Films, photos, interviews, it gives you chills.